For Thursday, our last fun day in the Hill Country, Billy and I went to San Antonio to visit with our son, Tony, and Nora, his wife. Neither one of us had been to San Antonio in years, so it was wonderful that Tony now lives there and knows the area well enough to drive us around. Of course, as is true with every Texan, the first place we wanted see was the Alamo. We drove past it, and what a huge disappointment it was! The city had built around it, doing little to preserve its sanctity. It looked so strangely out of place among the skyscrapers, almost like a cheap tourist attraction, that we decided not to stop.
All our kids are Mexican Food addicts (and so am I), so we were in for another culinary treat in San Antonio. Tony and Nora took us to Mi Tierra Cafe y Panderia (My Land Cafe and Bakery).
The restaurant is located in central downtown near El Mercado (the Market Place) and is one busy restaurant. After we turned our name in, we explored a bit. On either side of the entry were shrines set up for Dia de los Muertas–the day of the dead. While Americans celebrate a frightening halloween derived from its Celtic roots, the Mexicans use the day as a joyous way to celebrate the dead. Skeleton dolls are dressed up and displayed around pictures of loved ones who have passed away. A Mexican man was at one of the shrines and explained to us that families in Mexico packed elaborate lunches, guitars (and probably Tequila), and headed for the cemeteries to celebrate the lives of those who were dead. It didn’t sound quite so morbid when he described it; he almost sounded wistful.
Before long, our number was called and we entered a wonderful–and huge–restaurant that was already preparing for Christmas inside. Odd contrast to the shrines outside. Once again, I barely remember what I had for lunch because MSB ordered something terrific (in my defense, we try to order different things so we can taste each other’s. This time, he ordered before I did and got what I wanted)–Enchiladas de Pollo en Mole, Chicken enchiladas in a sauce made with bitter chocolate. Oh, my! That was wonderful! And bless Nora’s Latina heart–she’s going to teach me how to make it next time we get together!
Of course, we couldn’t leave the place without going to the Panderia and trying los dulces (sweets). I was intrigued by one thing on display behind the glass counter: Dulce de Comote — candied sweet potato. It sounded so–soul food, so American South. And it was pure heaven! I’m not sure what they did or how, but the potato was wonderful and enough for Billy and I and anyone else who wanted a bite!
After lunch, Tony took us to El Mercado, which wasn’t too crowded thanks to the time of year we chose to go. (Seriously, all you who dream of travel after the kids are grown and gone, take all your journeys in October–especially if you’re coming south. Temperatures are mild, the best places are still open–you can’t beat it!). I’m still not sure I have a full idea of what the Market Place looks like, whether there are several buildings involved or just one huge one, but where we went was like a mall. Each shop was tiny, even the stores along the perimeter. Stores on the inside were partitioned off by curtains or temporary walls, and all the shops were crammed with treasures (and the not so treasurable) from Mexico.
So, there you have it all. Our annual trip to the Hill Country in four posts!












What a grand adventure you’ve had! Times like this are what it’s all about. Hang on to those memories; they’re the fuel that maintains us when we would otherwise fail.
It was a lot of fun. I’m really looking forward to going back–sometime in Dec, I think.
Love the skeleton dolls! They look like something out of a Tim Burton movie.
How fun to relive our trip to San Antonio in the spring through your travels! Very interesting about the Mexican “Halloween” festivities!
Glad you enjoyed your visit!
@ Katie: You should see the male skeletons, dressed like Mexican cowboys with sombreros. They’re great, in a macabre sort of way. Very Burtonesque!
@ Sue: You went in the spring? Did you get to go on the Riverwalk? We didn’t have time this time, but I’m hoping we can when we go back.